It’s pop (or mom, if you like) quiz time!

What does the acronym H-U-B stand for in this Website?

Give up?

Hints: H means under the hood, U designates adjustments done under the car, and B notes adjustments made beside the car.

Did you pass the quiz?

So grab your car care toolbox and let’s get torquing.

Replacing Radiator Coolant, Cap, and Hoses

Your car’s radiator uses more than just water to keep your engine from overheating. It uses a mixture of water and antifreeze fluid, also known as coolant. An antirust ingredient in the antifreeze attempts to minimize the rust that’s a byproduct of contact between water, air, and some metals. It’s not totally successful, however, so every year or two, you should transfuse the rust-laden coolant in your car’s radiator. At the same time, consider replacing the radiator cap and hoses on your car. These components also break down with use and can fail when you most need them-like when you’re crossing Death Valley, or when you’re already late for a job interview.

To replace the radiator coolant, cap, and hoses in your car, follow these steps:

1. Remove the radiator cap and drain coolant from the cooling system. On most cars, this means placing a 2- to 5-gallon open container under the radiator and opening the drain fitting or removing the lower hose on the radiator. Some engines also have one or two coolant drain plugs on the engine block that must be removed to drain coolant from the block. Drain the coolant reservoir if possible. Your car’s heater might also have a drain plug. In each case, make sure you have a container to capture the draining coolant.
2. Flush the radiator system using fresh water and a radiator cleaner. You can purchase a radiator flush system at most auto parts retailers. It includes a cleaner as well as a plastic T-fitting that you install in a system hose. You then attach a garden hose to circulate fresh water through the system under pressure. Follow manufacturer’s instructions rather than mine.
3. Check the condition of the radiator hoses by squeezing them. Replace them if they are soft, have cuts in them, or give you an unexpected shower. In fact, it’s relatively cheap insurance to replace the hoses as you replace the coolant. Hoses usually cost less when replacing them isn’t an emergency. Inspect and, if necessary, replace the hose clamps at the same time.
4. Replace the coolant. Recommended coolant is half water and half antifreeze fluid available from auto parts retailers. Make sure all drain plugs are tightened or replaced. Before adding the coolant to the radiator or reservoir, first open the car’s heater temperature control to the maximum heat position so that the coolant also fills the heater core.
5. When you think the radiator or reservoir is full of coolant, start the car and let it warm up with the radiator cap off. The water pump inside the engine circulates the coolant, forcing air out of the system. When the upper radiator hose is warm to the touch, turn off the engine and let it cool. Then add more coolant as needed to fill the radiator or reservoir.
6. Replace the radiator pressure cap with a new one. Otherwise, it will fail 75 miles from town and you will have to purchase a new one at]oe’s Hi-Way Robbery and Expensive Fuel and Auto Parts Station.
7. Start the engine again and let it warm up. As it does, inspect the radiator, reservoir, hoses, engine block drain plugs, and heater core for leaks.
8. Properly dispose of the old coolant (down a storm drain is a big no-no!). Seal it in a plastic container and take it to your local recycling center for disposal. Coolant is both sweet and poisonous to pets, so clean up any spills thoroughly.

Replacing the Fuel Filter

It’s science lesson time. Gasoline is processed petroleum. During the processing, contaminants are removed. However, gas is then stored in imperfect tanks with rust and bits of metal or plastic. The worst culprit is your own car’s gas tank, where contaminants can build up on the bottom. If the engine is operated when the tank is almost empty, these contaminants can be pumped to your engine along with the gas. They then can enter the carburetor or fuel injectors and block operation. Fortunately, today’s cars have filters in the fuel line to stop the big chunks from entering the carburetor or fuel injectors. Even older cars (like my 40-year-old Lincoln) have been retrofitted with fuel filters to minimize big chunks in the carburetors. Replacing the fuel filter on most cars is a piece of cake. So get out the cake server and…

To replace the fuel filter on your car, follow these steps:

1. Find the fuel filter. First, check your car’s owner’s manual or service manual for the location of the fuel filter. On some cars, it’s under the hood-a small aluminum barrel in the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor. On other cars, it’s a plastic-cased filter installed on the carburetor, near the fuel-injection unit, or on the fuel pump. Some are installed near the fuel tank. A few cars have two fuel filters-one near the tank and one near the carburetor.
2. Remove the fuel filter. In-line fuel filters can be removed by hand by carefully loosening clamps at each end of the filter unit and then pulling the fuel lines off the filter. Fuel filters installed on the carburetor or fuel pump require that you use a wrench to first loosen the fuel line and then remove the filter.
3. Replace the fuel filter. You can find a replacement fuel filter at your favorite auto parts store or many hardware stores. There probably will be a brand name and a parts number on the filter. If not, an auto parts counterperson or a reference book can tell you which filter you need. Also make sure the clamps or fittings on the filter are in good shape, and replace them as needed.

Replacing the Air Filter

Air isn’t what it used to be. A car’s air filter can tell you this. Look at a used air filter and you can see a broad collection of stuff your car otherwise would have breathed. The history of air filters also illustrates the growth of pollution and a car’s need for clean air. Early cars had no air filter. Later cars had an oil-bath filter system that caught bugs and bits before they were sucked up by the carburetor. Today’s cars have large and fairly efficient filters to keep most objects out of the carburetor or fuel-injection system. Wouldn’t it be great if we all had replaceable air filters in us? Fuel-injection systems are especially sensitive to clogged air filters. Although a clogged filter won’t damage your car, it can dramatically reduce power. And a new air filter will probably cost you less than $10. Replacing your car’s air filter is one of the easier tasks you can do for your car’s health.

To replace the air filter in your car, follow these steps:

1. Find the air filter. For carbureted cars, the air filter is usually located above the carburetor in a large round object euphemistically called the air cleaner. For fuelinjected cars, the filter is located somewhere between the car’s front grill and the engine.
2. Remove the air filter. For carbureted cars, remove the wingnut on top of the air cleaner and lift off the top to expose the round air filter. For fuel-injected cars, remove the clips or twistnuts on the filter cover and lift the air filter from the unit, noting which way it came out so that you can put the new one back in the same way. Use an old rag to wipe out the air cleaner, discarding any waylaid bugs or other foreign objects. (I found a live salamander in one of my car’s air cleaners! Honest!)
3. Replace the air filter. Place the new air filter against the old one to make sure it’s the same size. This also tells you something about the amount of contaminants your air filter stopped since it was last replaced. Install the new air filter in the same way the old one was installed. Some paper filters are wrapped with a foam blanket that initially filters bugs that have committed suicide and other large projectiles. Filters for fuel-injection systems usually go in only one way, but those for carbureted systems can go in correctly with either side up. Make sure the filter sits well and isn’t lopsided.
4. Replace other parts you took off to get to the filter.

Many cars have an air cleaner that controls the source of air going through the filter and to the carburetor or injection system. It pulls warmer air from the exhaust manifold when the engine is cold and from the outside air when the engine warms up. As you work around the air cleaner, make sure the air duct from the engine sits securely in place. Visually inspect the air cleaner housing and regulator for disconnections and damage. Some older cars also have a rubber hose that feeds into the side of the air cleaner. This hose starts at a nearby tube where you pour oil for the engine crankcase, called the crankcase inlet. It recirculates fumes from the engine’s oil system through the fuel system. If your car has one of these hoses, make sure it’s snugly in place (between the crankcase inlet and the air cleaner).

Replacing Spark Plugs

Spark plugs are an important part of your car’s engine. They supply the fire that ignites the controlled explosions within each cylinder. Today’s cars are sufficiently efficient that the spark plugs need replacement only every couple of years or about 25,000 miles. Unfortunately, car manufacturers have used this fact to make spark plugs less accessible than they were on earlier engines. In fact, on some engines, it’s a chore just finding all the spark plugs, let alone trying to replace them. After you find them, you might decide to replace them yourself or to hire a dexterous mechanic for the jobTo find the spark plugs, first find the car’s distributor or ignition computer. It will have four to eight wires running from it. Follow each of these wires and you will, hopefully,find the spark plugs. Optionally, check your car’s owner’s manual or service manual for a drawing of the engine that may indicate where the spark plugs are hidden. Don’t bother cleaning and resetting the gap on used spark plugs. They’re sufficiently used up and sufficiently cheap to replace every couple of years.

To replace the spark plugs in your car, follow these steps:

1. Purchase your spark plugs. Auto parts retailers can supply replacement spark plugs. However, a previous owner or mechanic might have installed spark plugs that operate at hotter or colder temperatures, so you might want to remove and check the brand and number on the plug before buying a set. Be careful of what you install because a spark plug that is too long can damage the engine’s internal parts. Your best bet is to use the spark plug recommended by the manufacturer. How many? One for each cylinder: four for a four-cylinder engine, six for a sixcylinder engine, and eight spark plugs for an eight-cylinder engine. Enough math.
2. Set the gap for all the spark plugs. Spark plugs supply electrical spark to the cylinder by making it jump a small gap at the end of the plug. The gap between the center electrode and ground electrode must be exactly as recommended by the manufacturer. Use a gap gauge (a couple of dollars at the auto parts store) to set the gap between the electrodes. If the gap needs adjustment, you can carefully bend the ground or wire electrode until it is.
3. Remove the old plug. First, make sure your engine hasn’t been run within an hour or more so that you don’t bum yourself on hot engine parts. After you find the spark plug, grasp the spark plug wire where it attaches to the spark plug end or terminal and carefully pull it off. Depending on how easy the spark plugs are to reach, you may need to use a spark plug wire puller (less than $10 at youknow-where). Then use an old paint brush to sweep away any dirt and debris from around the spark plugs. You don’t want that stuff falling into the cylinder hole when the spark plug is removed. Use a spark plug wrench to grasp and tum the spark plug counterclockwise to remove it. This may require some force.
4. Install the new (gapped) plug. Apply some anti-seize lubricant to the threads of the plug to make removal easier the next time. If you can easily reach it by hand, place the end of the spark plug in the cylinder hole and screw it in. If you can’t quite reach it, push a 6- to 12-inch length of 3/s-inch hose on the terminal to extend your reach. Don’t force the spark plug into the hole or you will ruin the threads on the side of the plug. Tighten the spark plug into the hole using a torque wrench or a standard spark plug wrench. Overtightening can break the plug and add time and frustration to the job.
5. Reinstall the spark plug wire.
6. Repeat the process for the other spark plugs.

Your spark plugs may be trying to tell you something. You can learn much about the operation of your car’s engine by inspecting the old spark plugs. A service manual or an auto parts store has a chart showing what spark plugs might look like and what caused the problem: overheating, carbon, oil, poor fuel, preignition, and so on. If you don’t speak spark plug, don’t be afraid to ask a knowledgeable clerk to help you interpret what the plugs are telling you.

Replacing Spark Plug Wires

Spark plug wires used to be copper wires wrapped with a rubber insulator. Today’s wires use a carbon or silicon conductor that is more efficient, but also more sensitive to mishandling and to age. 1 know that feeling! Many car manufacturers now recommend that the spark plug wires be replaced when the spark plugs are replaced.

To replace the spark plug wires in your car, follow these steps:

1. Purchase a replacement set of spark plug wires for your car as recommended by the manufacturer. A replacement set has wires cut to the correct lengths and includes contacts and boots (cowboy or hiking?) for each end. Some sets also have numbers on the wires to help you identify which cylinder they go to.
2. Find the spark plug wires on your car. To do so, find the car’s distributor or ignition computer. Wires lead from it to the spark plugs. The wires may feed through one or more brackets, called looms, that isolate the wires from the maze of other wires and hoses under the hood. You might need to replace the looms, too, depending on how easy the wires are to remove from the looms. Some spark plug wire sets come with new looms or replacement bridges.
3. Replace the wires, one at a time. Select one spark plug wire and trace it from the computer or distributor to the spark plug. Then select the replacement spark plug wire of the same length. Follow the instructions that came with the wire set on how to install it on your car. Some spark plug wire conductors are more sensitive to handling than others. If it feeds through a hole in a loom, you may need to remove a boot from one end to do so.
4. Repeat the process for each spark plug wire until all are installed. Recheck both ends of each wire to ensure that they fit snugly.

Replacing Other Ignition Parts

Depending on what type of ignition system your car uses, other parts can need replacement. Older cars have breaker-point ignitions. Newer ones have breakerless ignitions. The newest cars have computerized ignitions. You can replace some of these parts, but you may not want to, or be able to, replace ignition parts on newer cars.

To replace other ignition parts in your car, follow these steps:

1. Identify what type of ignition system your car has and what it needs. The car’s service manual tells you and also identifies the parts to be replaced. Breaker-point distributors need new contact points, a condenser, a rotor, and a cap. Breakerless ignition systems need a new rotor and cap, and sometimes one or two other components. A computerized ignition might not need anything. To find out what your car needs, identify your car to an auto parts counterperson.
2. Disassemble the ignition and replace parts as described in the car’s service manual. For many cars, this means first removing the distributor cap. The distributor cap is the round plastic part that gathers the ends of all the spark plug wires. To replace the cap, first align the old and new caps side-by-side with the notch underneath both caps at the same relative position. Then remove one spark plug wire from the old cap and place it at the same position on the new cap. One-by-one, repeat this process for all spark plug wires as well as the coil wire that fits in the center of the cap.
3. To replace the distributor rotor, first remove the distributor cap. Then lift the old rotor from the center of the distributor. Visually check to make sure the new rotor is the same size and shape as the old one. The hole on the underside of the new rotor has a notch that shows how it fits on the distributor shaft key. Install it by matching the notch and the key.
4. To replace contact points and the condenser on a breaker-point distributor, follow the car manufacturer’s recommendations in the service manual. In most cases, the engine is rotated until the corners of the distributor shaft push the contact points open to a specific gap. Replace the old contact points with a new set and adjust the gap. Replace the condenser (this stores electricity between sparks).
5. To replace parts in a breakerless distributor or a computerized ignition, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. There are just too many variations to cover in this website.

This article offers instructions on how to replace automotive parts and fluids that need attention annually. Of course, there are so many car designs and needs that there can’t be a hard-and-fast rule for much of anything having to do with cars. So read your car’s owner’s manual, apply your common sense, ask your mechanic, and determine when your car needs parts and fluids replaced.

You’ll need your handy-dandy toolbox to replace parts. I’ll point them out as you need them.

Readjusting the Ignition Timing

An engine is poetry. Maybe it’s not Carl Sandburg, but at least it’s pentameter. At the exact moment that fuel is compressed in the combustion chamber, a spark comes along to ignite it. So the timing of the ignition is critical. Without correct ignition timing, power is lost. Correct ignition timing ensures that each spark plug fires at exactly the right microsecond. How does this happen? Fortunately, there’s an indicator on your car’s engine that tells you exactly when a specific cylinder (usually #1) is ready for the spark. This indicator is mounted on the front of your car’s engine. It’s the crankshaft pulley that rotates as the engine does. When a mark on the rotating pulley aligns with a mark on the stationary engine block, the ignition is in time.

You might ask now, “How do I know when those two marks are aligned?” The engine is running so fast. Here’s how: Attach a tool called a timing light to the spark plug wire on the #1, or reference, cylinder. The light will go on each time electrical current is sent to that cylinder’s spark plug. Point the timing light at the engine’s timing mark, and it will light up to show you the relationship between the mark and the reference point. Pretty snazzy, eh? The other question you probably have is “What do I do if the timing is off?” Answer:

You adjust it by rotating the distributor slightly. A bolthead below the distributor, where it attaches to the engine block, can be loosened to allow the distributor to be turned and then tightened when the timing is correct.

To adjust the ignition timing on your car, follow these steps:

1. Before starting the engine, use chalk or touch-up paint to identify the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the stationary pointer. Mark the scale as indicated by specifications. The manual or a plate or sticker on the car tells you where the mark should be. TDC means top dead center. BTDC means before top dead center. 50 BTDC means five degrees before top dead center.
2. Connect the timing light to the engine following the manufacturer’s instructions. For most models, this means attaching the black lead wire to the negative terminal on the battery, attaching the red lead to the positive terminal, and attaching the third lead on or around the reference spark plug wire.
3. Loosen the adjustment nut or bolthead on the distributor base so that the distributor can be rotated to adjust the timing. Be careful not to move the distributor yet.
4. If your car’s manual says so, disconnect and plug the vacuum advance on the distributor. The vacuum advance (on older cars) uses increasing vacuum pressure to advance the timing at higher engine speeds. You don’t want this to happen because it will throw off your ignition timing test, so disconnect the vacuum line and plug the hole with tape or a golf tee for now.
5. Make sure all the timing light wires and other tools are clear of the fan blades before starting the engine. Start the engine and let it warm up for about 15 minutes. If the engine is running at a high idle speed, press the accelerator a couple of times to bring the engine down to normal idling speed.
6. Point the timing light at the ignition timing mark on the crankshaft pulley. If the marks line up, tighten the adjustment bolt on the base of the distributor. If they do not line up, slowly rotate the distributor with your hand until the timing marks on the pulley are lined up and then tighten the adjustment bolt. If no amount of adjustment aligns the marks, or if aligning them makes the engine run very rough, you might not be using the correct spark plug wire. Stop, check everything for accuracy, and then start over.
7. After the distributor adjustment nut or bolthead is tightened, recheck the timing to make sure nothing was moved in the process. If everything is okay, reinstall the vacuum advance (if any), and then remove the timing light connections.
8. Take your car for a test drive, this time stopping off for a milkshake or other frozen artificial dairy product.

Replacing Engine Drivebelts

The rotation of your car’s engine not only rotates tires; it also powers the radiator cooling fan, the alternator, the air-conditioning compressor, the power steering (if any), and the washing machine. That’s efficient! The power is transferred from the engine to these components through drivebelts. The belts wrap around the crankshaft pulley (introduced in the last adjustment) and pulley wheels for these other parts. Rubberized belts are used rather than chains because they are more pliable-and less expensive. If the belts are too tight around the pulleys, the belts are stretched, and they break. If they are too loose, the belts don’t efficiently transfer power to the driven pulley. So your job, should you decide to accept it, is to make sure the drivebelts are adjusted properly. Which drivebelts? Your car’s service manual is more specific. Don’t lose any sleep. Check them every six months or so and you’ll be fine.

To check and replace the engine drivebelts in your car, follow these steps:

1. With the engine off, open the hood of your car and find the radiator and cooling fan. Behind the fan will be one or more drivebelts wrapped around one or more grooved wheels called pulleys.
2. Visually inspect each drive belt for tears, small cracks, grease, and other signs of wear or damage. Especially inspect the inside of the drivebelts-the part that fits into the pulley grooves-because this side gets the most wear. ReplZ/e worn drivebelts with ones of the exact same size, shape, and function. Some drive belts have the manufacturer’s name and part number stamped on the outside edge of the belt. If not, a parts dealer can help you identify the exact replacement part.
3. To install a drivebelt, first find the adjustment bolt. Loosen the adjustment bolt to allow movement of the driven pulley. Some drive belts have an automatic tensioner that also must be loosened. Remove the old drivebelt and replace it with the new one. Use a prybar to move the driven pulley back to near where it was with the old belt and then tighten the adjustment bolt. Adjust the drivebelt tension (unless done so by the automatic tensioner).
4. To adjust the drivebelt tension, press against the outside of the belt about halfway between two pulleys. The movement of the drivebelt is called the deflection. Typical deflection is about 1/4 inch for drivebelt spans (between pulleys) of less than 12 inches and about liz inch for spans of 12 to 18 inches. Loosen the adjustment bolt, use a prybar to move the driven pulley until the belt has the correct deflection, and then tighten the adjustment bolt.

Replacing Chassis Lubricant

Is there a doctor in the house? This patient needs a transfusion. There are many moving parts on your car. The engine, transmission/transaxle, and differential all have their own lubrication systems. Everything else that needs lubrication gets it under the category of chassis lubrication. The chassis includes the frame and secondary systems of your car: suspension, steering, and braking. Lubrication minimizes wear. Does your car’s chassis need lubrication? Probably. Depending on the design of your car, some or all of the lubrication may be done for you by the manufacturer. Many newer cars are designed with sealed lubrication points. Others need lubrication on only a couple of parts every 12,000, 24,000, or more miles. Older cars require chassis lubrication as frequently as every 3,000 miles and at as many as 2S places on the car. Your car’s owner’s manual or service manual includes specific recommendations on chassis lubrication.

To replace the chassis lubricant in your car, follow these steps:

1. Gather the tools you’ll need: wrenches, lubricating spray, and a grease gun. A grease gun, available at auto parts stores for about $10, forces thick lubricating grease into a fitting on your car when you squeeze the gun’s handle.
2. Find the lubrication fittings on your car. A lube chart or service manual for your car shows you where they are. Most of them are on or around the steering linkage and the suspension system between the front wheels.
3. Lubricate the steering and suspension parts as needed. Some parts have a nipple, called a zerk fitting, on which you press the end of the grease gun. Other lubrication points have a small plug that must be screwed off to reveal the lubrication point.
4. Make sure you lubricate all the miscellaneous chassis components as needed. They include the emergency or parking brake linkage, the transmission shift linkage, and universal or CV joints. These are lubricated either with a grease gun or by smearing grease on friction points with your finger. Many cars also require a drop of light oil on some parts. Make sure you hit the right part because oil is a conductor that can short out electrical components that are errantly doused.