Most of the car batteries nowadays are branded as maintenance-free or low-maintenance. Still every motorist should be responsible and must do some effort for usual maintenance routines. Here are some guidelines that can be followed to avoid getting stranded on a cold day.

It must be known how old the battery is. For knowing this, locate a small label on the battery. It has a letter with a number which indicates the month starting with ‘A’ for January and ‘B’ for February and it similarly goes on. December is ‘M’ as I is skipped. The year is represented by the number with ‘9’ standing for 1999, ‘0’ for 2000. D2 would represent April 2002 and similarly F5 would represent June 2005. Experts suggest that a new battery should be purchased when a battery completes the age of four years.

Look for loose cables, corroded terminals or battery posts, loose clamps or damaged or leaking battery case. Check if there are any wet, dirty, swollen or corroded cables. Check the condition of alternator belt if its loose or broken. The battery will have to power the whole electrical system of the vehicle if the alternator fails, repairs will be needed.

Always keep jumper cables in the vehicle’s trunk in case of emergency. Be sure that the cables are free of corrosion and rust. The car should be parked in the garage whenever it is possible. In case you have to leave your car all day outside, then go and start the car a couple of times in a day for few minutes for warming up. This will help the car in starting much easily. When the temperature falls below zero Degrees Fahrenheit, avoid leaving the car outside for long time.

Car batteries often have to be changed after a maximum period of 3 and half years depending on the battery’s warranty. If you sometimes you leave your car’s headlights accidently on when parked, then it will need a good charging as suggested by most auto electrical technicians.

Things Needed

• Screw driver
• Razor blade
• Wire-bristled brush
• Cola
• Electrical tape
• Protective gloves

Directions

• Open the car’s hood and secure it. The battery terminals have to be disconnected from the battery. Don’t forget to wear protective gloves to avoid contact with battery acid. Use a wire-bristle brush for scrubbing off any visible corrosion around and inside the ring terminal and out. The inside of the ring terminal would have to be scraped with a screwdriver in case the wire-bristled brush is not effective.
• The excess dust left by the cleaning form screwdriver or brush should be blown off. If the terminals are scraped properly, then a clean and shiny metal will be seen instead of a corrosive material.
• The wires leading to the battery terminals should be examined. If the sheathing of the copper wire has corrosion in form of whitish or greenish powder, then this also has to be cleaned. The wire housing has to be sliced open about half inch from the top using a razor blade. If corrosion is seen, continue cutting until the clean copper is seen. Any corroded wire should be removed and leave enough wire that can easily reach the terminal. Use an electrical tape to seal the wire. If this looks impossible, then it is better to buy a new cable.
• Pour water and baking soda solution or a can of cola over the battery terminals as an alternate way for cleaning them. The solution of water and baking soda and the acid in the cola eats the corroded material near the battery terminals allowing a better connection between the battery terminals and the battery.
• Once cleaning has been done, the positive clamp has to be replaced first and then the negative clamp should be replaced. Tighten them with a wrench of proper size. The plastic shield or rubber boot covering the positive terminal can be now replaced.

Now when a simple guide has been explained for cleaning battery terminals, it can be cleaned often.

Tips and Cautions

Never work on the car’s battery with the engine switched on.

Here are the simple steps to change a car battery:

Steps

• Turn of the engine, open the hood and locate the battery. Remove the battery’s negative (black) cable. Use a combination wrench to loosen the nut. A battery wrench or battery pliers would be the best suitable tools.
• Use your hand to twist and pull up on the cable’s end. In case it does not easily come off, then a battery terminal puller would be required which can be bought from a local auto dealer shop. This will help in preventing any possible damage to the cable or battery. A screwdriver should not be used as a pry-bar, this is not recommended as it can damage or break the battery terminal.

• Now remove the battery’s positive (red) cable by using the same method.
• Remove the battery hold-down clamp by using a socket, ratchet or a combination wrench.
• Take out the battery from the battery tray. Firmly grab them by using both hands because batteries are usually heavy. If handles are present on the battery, then use them.
• For cleaning any corrosion from the battery tray and the hold-down clamp, it is good to use baking soda mixed with water and cleaning with a wire brush.
• Use the wire brush to clean the battery cable connectors. For removing the stiff corrosions from the connectors, battery cleaning solutions should be used; they are available at any auto dealer store.
• Now the new battery can be placed in the battery tray and it can be secured with the hold-down clamp. Use the anti-corrosion solution and spray on both the terminal ends. The positive battery cable can now be attached and tightened and then the negative one. Once done, check again if they are all tightly attached. If they can be moved then the car might not start.

Tips & Warnings

Be sure that the wires are connected to the right battery terminal or else it can damage the vehicle.

Battery acid is extremely corrosive. Normal Vaseline can be used on the battery for preventing corrosion instead of lithium grease. Vaseline is suitable and keeps free from corrosion and dirt, it means better conduction.

It is recommended that batteries should always be bought from a reputable outlet that offers a guarantee of normally 1 – 2 years. It means that if the battery gives problem with in that time, it can be replaced for free.

The old battery should not be dumped in the trash. It should be taken to the facility that recycles hazardous materials. The used batteries can also be returned to the auto stores from where it was bought.

When the Automotive Power Goes Out

I know you’ve been waiting anxiously for these. Here are a few useful tips for troubleshooting charging and electrical systems. Solutions are offered later in this article.

• If the battery tests okay but won’t hold a charge, make sure the alternator drivebelt is adjusted tight. If the drivebelt is okay, test the voltage regulator using a volt-ohmmeter.
• If turn signals work only on one side, check the bulb and wiring on the side that isn’t working. If they don’t work at all, check the fuse.
• If you suspect that your car’s battery is weak, pull your car up to a garage door or other wall, turn off the engine, and turn the headlights on for a moment. If they are bright, the battery and voltage regulator are okay. If they are dim but brighten after you start the engine, the battery is bad. If they are bright but the engine turns slowly when you try to start it again, the starter is bad.

Energize Me

A car battery is an electrical storage device. It receives electricity from the alternator/ regulator and passes it on to other electrical components on demand. As the battery’s electricity is used up, it is replaced. Problems occur when a battery isn’t strong enough to keep a charge because the electrolyte is weak. This typically occurs a few days after the warranty expires.

To replace a battery, follow these steps:

1. Find your car’s battery. It’s usually under the hood and typically on the passenger’s side of the car.
2. Disconnect the cable from the negative side of the battery first and then the positive side.
3. Remove the hold-down clamp or frame that keeps the battery in place. Typically, this means removing nuts from the end of two long bolts. Grasp the bolts as you loosen the nuts, making sure the released bolts don’t fall out of reach.
4. Use a battery strap (from the auto parts store) attached to the two terminals to lift and remove the HEAVY battery. Set it aside for a moment.
5. Inspect the battery tray for corrosion and damage. If the tray is rusted or damaged, replace it. Wearing rubber gloves, clean the battery with baking soda and water to neutralize the battery acids.
6. Test the battery or have it tested to make sure it will hold a charge. If it will, recharge the battery or have it recharged by a mechanic. If it won’t, replace the battery with one of the same voltage, size, amperage rating, and coldcranking rating. Consider replacing the battery cables at the same time.
7. Reinstall the battery, hold-down clamp, positive cable, and then negative cable.
8. Lift your right hand over your head, bend your elbow to 120°, and then move your wrist repeatedly, patting yourself on the back. You done good.

Your Battery on Cable

A more expensive battery can be worth the extra expense. A 60month battery is built to hold a charge longer than a 48-month battery. So is a 60-month battery worth the extra money? Yes, it is-if you plan on keeping your car that long. If you plan to sell your car in the next year, a 36- or 48-month battery will do just fine at less cost. Your car’s battery produces and stores direct current (DC) by converting chemical energy into electrical energy. Electrolyte is the dietetic version of Electro. It’s also the sulfuric acid and water solution within a car battery that produces electricity.

The battery cables playa vital part in delivering electricity to and from the car’s battery. Battery cables are simply heavy-duty coated wires withterminals on the ends to make attaching them to the battery and other components easier. So what can go wrong with battery cables? They can become corroded by the electrochemical process that’s going on inside the battery. Corrosion is a buildup of powdery

substance on the cable ends. The ends can also be damaged by mishandling or become brittle with age. Unfortunately, I understand that all too well.

To replace your battery cables, follow these steps:

1. Find your car’s battery. It’s under the hood and typically on the passenger’s side of the car. There are two cables attached to two terminals on the top or side of the battery. One is probably red and the other black.
2. Disconnect the cable from the negative side of the battery and then the positive side. The negative cable is usually black and smaller than the red, positive cable.
3. Disconnect the cables at the other end. The negative ground cable (usually the black one) is probably connected to the engine. The positive cable (red) is probably connected to the starter solenoid.
4. Inspect the cable wire and ends for damage. Even if you can’t see it, there might be damage to the wires within the cable, reducing the flow of electricity through it. Battery cables are just a few dollars each, so replace them every few years whether or not you can see damage. The easiest time to replace cables is when you replace the battery, every four or five years.
5. To find replacement cables, clean the old cables and take them to your favorite auto parts retailer for an exact match. You want the new ones to match the old ones in length, circumference, and ends. If you have a choice, spend a couple of extra bucks and buy ones with better quality wires to transport electricity more easily. Cheap is cheap. Pick up some battery terminal corrosion inhibitor (or petroleum jelly) while you’re at the store-and a candy bar for me.
6. Reinstall the ends of the cables to the ground and the starter solenoid or wherever they came from, applying corrosion inhibitor to the bolt threads.
7. Apply corrosion inhibitor to the positive battery terminal. Reinstall the positive (red) cable to the positive terminal on the battery.
8. Apply corrosion inhibitor to the negative battery terminal. Reinstall the negative (black) cable to the negative terminal on the battery.

What to Do When You Can’t Charge Any More

An alternator produces electricity from a car’s engine. If your car’s battery is in good condition, but isn’t getting recharged, the charging system may be the culprit.

An alternator should give you at least 50,000 miles of service, and up to twice as much. Before you replace an alternator, check its drivebelt and pulley to make sure they aren’t the cause of the problem.

To test and replace an alternator, follow these steps:

1. To test the charging system’s fuse, first locate the fuse by using the car’s service manual. It may be a fuse box or it could be on the wire between the starter solenoid and the alternator. Make sure the engine and ignition are off. Use an ohmmeter, placing one probe on one side of the fuse or wire and one on the other. If the fuse or wire has infinite resistance (1), the circuit is open and the fuse should be replaced.
2. To test the alternator, refer to the car’s service manual for instructions on how to do so without removing the alternator from the car. One way of testing the system is by checking the battery’s voltage with a volt-ohmmeter (VoM). With the engine off, the battery should give a reading of about 12 volts. With the engine on, the battery should give a reading of 14-15 volts on the YOM. If it registers lower, replace the alternator. If it’s more than 15 volts, replace the voltage regulator.
3. To replace the alternator, first disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Then identify and remove all wires from the alternator. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt, and then remove the drive belt. Remove the alternator from the adjusting bracket and the engine. Replace the alternator with one of the exact same size and rating.
4. When done, test the alternator to make sure it’s doing its job. If not, sell your car and take the bus.

Regulating Those Volts

The voltage regulator plays an important role in your car’s charging system: It manages the alternator’s output voltage. How can you tell if the regulator isn’t working as it should? By checking the voltage of the battery with the engine running. If the battery voltage is less than 12 volts or more than 15 volts, the regulator is probably not working. Although you can replace the regulator without replacing the alternator, you should consider doing both at once. Don’t forget to disconnect the negative battery terminal when working on your car’s electrical system, and be prepared to reenter alarm codes if necessary, after the battery cable is reattached.

To replace a voltage regulator, follow these steps:

1. Find the dam thing. Your car’s service manual helps you locate it. Otherwise, older cars have the voltage regulator mounted on the firewall or a cowl (a wheel cover inside the engine compartment), and newer ones use a solid state regulator installed on the front side of the alternator behind the pulley wheel.
2. Loosen mounting screws and remove the regulator. Don’t attempt to repair it. Replace it.
3. Take the regulator to your auto parts retailer along with model numbers from the alternator on which it was installed. Make sure the replacement is the same size, shape, and rating as the unit it’s replacing.
4. Install the voltage regulator, making sure that all wires are connected correctly.
5. When done, test the voltage regulator to make sure it’s working as it should. If it’s now working properly, you have just passed the “Regulating Those Volts” final exam.

Other Auto Electrical Devices to Play With

Many other electrical devices in your car can also go awry at the least convenient time. They include lights, instruments, controls, radio, clock, and wiring (see the figure illustrating this system). Most have two wires; some have more. You can easily test these devices by checking the circuit to make sure electricity has a closed path through it. A volt-ohmmeter (VOM) can measure either the voltage in a live circuit or the resistance in a dead circuit. A live circuit is simply one with electricity flowing through it (with the ignition on and/or the engine running), and a dead circuit is one without power applied to it. So how is a dead circuit measured? The ohmmeter applies a small amount of electricity to the circuit using internal batteries, and then measures the output to see whether any of it made it to the exit. If so, it’s a closed circuit; if not, it’s open. An ohmmeter can also measure how much resistance the signal faced trying to get to the exit. Resistance is measured in ohms; more ohms means more resistance.

To test continuity of an electrical device, follow these steps:

1. Isolate the device by marking and removing any wires attached to it. You won’t keep it isolated long enough for it to get lonesome.
2. Decide what ohmmeter reading you should be getting (open, closed, low resistance, or high resistance). The owner’s manual can help you determine the appropriate reading.
3. Test the device using the ohmmeter. If the reading isn’t what it should be, replace the device or have it repaired. A tum signal light should be replaced, for example, but an analog clock often can be repaired.

To test voltage of an electrical device, follow these steps:

1. Make sure the device has power coming to it: fuses okay, ignition on.
2. Learn what volt-ohmmeter (VOM) reading you should be getting (2 volts, 12 volts, and so on). The owner’s manual may help. Otherwise, estimate output voltage by what the device is designed to do: Use voltage to do a task (lower output) or multiply voltage (higher output).
3. Test the device using the YOM. If the reading isn’t what it should be, replace the device or have it repaired, as necessary.
4. Use your experiences with a volt-ohmmeter to bore others.